Bites Nearby: Mary's Pizza Shack is an Evergreen

121 San Marin Drive
Novato
(415) 897-6266

Overview:
I’ve never been much of a “joiner.” Maybe it was getting kicked out of the Brownies a million years ago. However, recently I became acquainted with Novato’s Soroptimists, a women’s volunteer organization that helps girls and women. 

It was love at first luncheon. The second meeting I went to was held in a sunny private room at Mary’s Pizza Shack. The menu choices were preset.

Another day, I returned, on my own, to try more of the menu. After two recent visits, I can see why Mary’s has been around for more than 50 years and has 18 stores. Mary’s serves good Italian-American food in generous portions at low prices.

Décor:
Painted an appealing shade of yellow, trimmed with red, the large sprawling dining room and open kitchen add to the homey atmosphere. A display of kitchen utensils suspended over a bank of tables enhances the down-home look.

The Drinks:
Fountain drinks, beer and wine.

Appetizers:
On my first visit I had a terrific Caesar salad, inexplicably served with the really garlicky dressing on the side. I decided to also have a cup of soup, a puree of potato-leek. It was inedible. It was so thick; it could have almost supported the spoon straight up.

I mentioned to the server that I didn’t eat it and she said she told the cooks to add some water to the soup, because it was from the bottom of the pot. That kind of candor belongs in the “too much information department,” I think.

On my second visit, I decided not to give up on the soup and ordered a cup of lentil. Of all the food I tried at Mary’s, this soup was close to perfect, nicely thick, it was enhanced with bits of sausage. The only downside was that my cheerful server brought it to me with soup slopped down the sides of the cup and into the saucer. I don’t know if the kitchen over-filled it or she spilled it on the way to my table.

Entrees:
A simple slice of tomato-cheese pizza was large and delicious. On my second visit, the spaghetti with one large meatball was a good dish, particularly because the meatball had been properly made, so it was fluffy, not dense.  The meat sauce on the spaghetti needed more meat and a bit of thickening.

Desserts:
The mud pie, here made with chocolate ice cream, was a large slice, enough for two people.

Service:
Friendly, but somewhat untrained. The check was delivered, but I wasn’t asked if I wanted dessert. Waiters need to remember that they are salesmen on commission. When the customer orders dessert, their tip should be higher. 

Cost:
Appetizers $4-$9.95; pizzas $7-$26.75; entrees $6.95-$12.95

Handicap Accessible:
Yes

Noise level:
Can hear comfortably