Eat Local: Vin Antico's New Chef Wows Diners

Each week, Patch picks a restaurant in Novato, Petaluma or San Rafael that is worth checking out.  Here's this week's choice.

Vin Antico

www.vinantico.com

881 Fourth St., San Rafael; (415) 454-4492

Overview: Several years ago, I had lunch at Vin Antico, an urban trattoria in downtown San Rafael. The music was so loud I, along with some other patrons, asked the waitress to turn it down. She said, “The chef likes it that way.”

Steam coming out of my ears, I said, “I hope he likes not having any customers.”

I didn’t go back.

But the new chef-owner at Vin Antico, Ed Vigil, is pulling out all the stops on his menus at Vin Antico, making it well-worth a return visit. Vigil's last hit was at the Olema Inn.

At a recent dinner at Vin Antico, he wowed us with his seafood-stuffed squid ink ravioli, duck and venison. It’s probably the best restaurant I visited in Marin in 2010. Oh, and the music is bearable.

Décor: Vin Antico has a rustic Italianate look and open kitchen.

The Drinks: Vin Antico serves wine and beer. The wine list is well-rounded with several selections avaialable by-the-glass.

Appetizers: Appetizers featured include California caviar paired with a smoked sturgeon mousse, blinis and crème fraiche; and oven-roasted oysters topped with wild mushrooms and creamy leeks. Dishes change seasonally.

Entrees: A bourride (fish stew) is made with Dungeness crab, Manila clams, halibut, garlic, saffron Rouille. A Masami Ranch Kobe steak, olive oil poached Red Thumb potatoes, wild mushrooms, Speck, and Cresta di Gallo will delight.

Desserts: Don’t miss the chocolate pot de crème with huckleberries and crème fraiche.

Service: Smart and caring.

Cost: $$$

Appetizers $6 to $31 (the last for the truffle risotto); entrees $25 to $27; pasta in two sizes are $12 to $19; desserts are $6 to $8.

Handicapped access: Yes

Noise level: Talking at the normal level gets difficult at busy times.